Come fly with me and explore Italia! Part 3 - Positano & Capri
POSITANO
As I mentioned, this trip to Italy wasn’t my first one, it was my fourth. And every place in the past stole my heart. Neither Jeff not I been to Amalfi coast before, so this time we decided, why not spend a few days on the sea and just chill between busy, cultural days, like Florence and Rome. WOW, let me tell you oh my, how did I ever miss this place before? I don’t think I have ever, ever, ever, seen anything more so beautiful, picturesque, scenic, magnificent, breathtaking in my life. “We are only a few minutes away from Positano” stated our driver. For the 45-minute ride from Pompeii to Positano, my face was glued to the window. As the car made a curve move on the very narrow road, Positano was on our right on the very bottom of the road we were one. We all said at once, “Wow this is beautiful.” By the shore, on the very bottom and quite far from where the road was, there were ton of beautiful yachts and boats floating on a very calm sea. The colors of the houses that surrounded the sea, were as magnificent as in Cinque Terre, but on the larger scale. As we got out of the car, the owner, Luisa, of the VRBO Casa Anastagia we were renting met us. Thank goodness for carry-ons. We had to walk down 150 steps to get to our house. As we checked in, I couldn’t wait to explore. Ok, so if you are not into walking up and down 450 stairs each way, try to find something closer to the sea. That is something to keep in mind when looking for a hotel. After another 300 steps down, we were finally on the main drag. The traffic wasn’t as thrilling for Izabella as it was for me. Narrow roads with large cars going in both directions, and as a pedestrian, you literally only get the foot of a sidewalk to walk on. I trust Italians and their driving expertise but Izabella - not too much. The phenomenon was that the Positanoins clearly don’t believe in small cars, they love their Mercedes vans. As we were exploring, we ended up at the café right by the ocean. Ahhh, the fresh breeze, after baking in 95 degrees for the past 5 days was exactly what we needed. The place was quite a lovely spot for people watching. I won’t mention the name, just because it wasn’t anything special but good enough for Spritz, olives, French fries with truffle mayo and a slice of pizza for Izabella, slice of Italian heaven.
As always, and as I mentioned before, locals are the best people to give you restaurant recommendations. Luisa gave us a few suggestions, so right the way, I called places and made reservations. That night, the reservation was made for Il Capitano. SO, fashion is my thing. God forbid, I’ll go to dinner in same ensemble as I wore all day and wear the same shade of lipstick. And my family, as I trained them well, are always on the same page as me. HOWEVER, it wasn’t the case on that day. The idea of walking up 300 steps and 300 steps down just to look good in the pictures wasn’t in the cards for them. So, I left them to explore more, and decided to run up the road and climb 300 steps. Looking back, perhaps it wasn’t the smartest concept, because I don’t think I have ever been so drenched in sweat. As I was climbing, I met a quite lovely girl who happened to be from England, who was climbing for exactly the same reason, change of wardrobe and hair fix up. “Oh bloody steps,” she said. Come to find out, she was there for a wedding, she was the bride’s hairdresser and her bestie. “Yeh, I left my crew behind, can’t just go in this?” She pointed at the cutest jumper she was wearing, “and show up in flats?” “How quite brave of her to wear stilettos in Positano,” I thought.
The dinner was speeeectaaacuuular. A grilled octopus, grilled to perfection, among other dishes and Izabella’s favorite, pasta Bolognese were just extraordinary. The view of the sea, the moon picking from the hills and a few well-fed cats meowing and shmoozing around, made our first evening in Positano just magnificent.
The decision to travel to Positano was based on the idea of just relaxing; swim in the sea, enjoy beaching and a quick trip to Capri. So the second day was all about figuring out the town and down time by the beach. The breakfast in the local café is just what the doctor ordered. Un caffe (espresso) for my hubs, sfogliatella for Izabella and granita di caffe for me. When in Italy and it’s burning hot outside, frozen coffee (granita di caffe) is absolutely a must. Don’t forget to try it, you will love it. Renting a chair from L’Incanto highly recommended. However, do it online the day before. The place also offers a full menu, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Right there on the beach, there are a few great restaurants. Nothing beats swimming in the sea, chilling under umbrella with the Spritz and being surrounded by the most picturesque view.
Another must place for dinner - Saraceno d’Oro Sado. The manager is just the most flamboyant, beautiful Italian man who greats you at the door. The food was absolutely delicious, and the wine selection was quite fab. So for that reason, we just had to go back there on our last night in Positano. “Izabella, bella (beautiful) Izabella bentornato (welcome back), as the manager and the waitress from two nights before, gave Izabella, Jeff and I huge hugs like we were their family.
On the day off from beach was the day in Capri. A beautiful boat ride from Positano to Capri with breeze, the mountains and a little cocktail show. Three Italian men selling limoncello and bubbly cocktail. One collects money and 2 make a drink, quite entertaining. For Capri, a note to us, spend the night there. That is what we learned from one couple from New York, who only have been travelling to Capri for the last 18 years. During the day its madness, tourists shop till they drop, but in the evening, apparently when all boats with tourists leave, all the locals come out for dinners and celebrities get off their yachts - it’s just a nice town with amazing restaurants. SO, the next time we are in that part of the world, I know exactly where to spend a few nights. But I couldn’t just not find a crème de la crème restaurant for lunch, so per New York couple’s suggestion we tried the Villa Verde. Yum, yum, yum. Absolutely fantastic. The eggplant parmesan was simply out of this world. The never-ending pizza for Izabella was literally the double size she was used to. Beautiful garden with superb service. Most definitely a must.
Overall, would I ever want to go back to Positano, YES. Would I ever want to stay in the same place again and be able to climb 300 steps, absolutely YES. Would I ever want to try the restaurants we have discovered, most definitely YES. The visit to this picturesque, beautiful, serene place has been one special experience for my family. The multitude of the colors and the blue sea in between was beyond extraordinary. Until next time Positano. Oh I miss this place so much already.
La Dolce Vita!